On this Memorial Day I would like to honor Mr. Mainbocher. He's famous for designing the uniforms for the Navy WAVES and the Coast Guard SPARS during World War II. Mr. Mainbocher is credited with the invention of timeless designs still worn today, such as the short evening gown, the strapless dress, and the sheath.
"Though the moniker “Mainbocher” is more famously associated with the fashion capitals of Paris and New York, he was originally born Main Rousseau Bocher on October 24, 1890 on the west side of Chicago, Illinois. It was during the early years of World War II that his keen eye for functional, feminine designs caught the attention of a surprising client: the United States Navy. One of his faithful customers and former colleague at Vogue was Josephine Forrestal, wife of the then Undersecretary of the Navy, James Forrestal. In 1942, she was tasked as the “civilian advisor of uniforms” for the newly established Navy WAVES, and approached Mainbocher about designing the official uniform for the Navy’s women unit, which would also double as the uniform for the Coast Guard women’s unit, the SPARS. Securing a stylish uniform design for the WAVES and SPARS was critical, as it was not meant to be merely ornamental; the uniform was to be a vital tool in legitimizing the idea of women in the military. Many Americans were anxious that service in the military would upend traditional gender norms and diminish the femininity of the servicewoman, including prospective WAVES who had reservations about serving in a male’s uniform. The uniform had to be standardized to befit a military unit, but also highly practical and able to be worn well by women working both desk duties and manual labor jobs. The Navy was also interested in recruiting women who were educated and poised, and needed a flattering uniform that would attract such candidates. And overall, the uniform was needed to create a sense of pride and patriotism in the women who wore them, avoiding the negative feelings the Navy women reservists of World War I, more popularly known as the Yeomanettes, felt about theirs."
You can read the entire article here:
https://text-message.blogs.archives.gov/2022/07/26/mainbocher-designer-of-the-best-dressed-women-in-the-world/
#memorialday2023
No comments:
Post a Comment